How to describe Louigi’s Pizza? A delicious crust that tastes of real bread, cooked in a wood-burning oven to just this side of charring; top-quality sauces and toppings, sparely applied; a rock-solid consistency. And that doesn't begin to do the trick.

Despite tough competition and horrible location, Louigi’s Pizza remains the best pizza in the area. You can construct your own pizza from the list of toppings on the menu, but you're unlikely to do better than owner Louigi’s set offerings--the spicy Atomica with salami and red-pepper flakes, the unusual and delicious Genovese with potatoes and pesto, or the simple Margherita, which needs nothing other than tomato, basil, and mozzarella.

If you can pass up the pizza, there's a small list of panini, Italian sandwiches served on house-made rolls. The one filled with marinated roast pork is a treat, and the tuna salad with anchovies and capers is very good, too.